Help It Won't Start !!!!

[JG911]

Hello everyone,

This problem started last year and this is what happened

Last year i went out for a drive and noticed the fuel light on so i drove it home with the idea that i would put fresh feul in her next time i go out,as i was putting her away in the garage (slight upwards slope) she cut out,but restarted again with no problems,then cut out again in garage,so removed the battery leads from battery shut garage door and left it a week.

Nice day again so i thought id go for a drive out put some fresh fuel,connected the battery,jumped in driver seat turned the key only to find out the engine just turned over and over,so brought a new DME relay tryed again and just kepted turning over,so left it for another day,then just before christmas we tryed again only to find battery was dead,so left it again.

Now i want to get her sorted out as it's no good just leaving it in the garage and nice summer weather coming i want to get it sorted.

So does anyone know what the problem could be or would like to pop down to have nosey (ill cover petrol and dinner).

[J.J.]

Go & buy a can of fresh petrol for a start. The stuff goes off. That may be all it needs. Use it more! They don't like being left standing for long periods without use!

[JG911]

Go & buy a can of fresh petrol for a start. The stuff goes off. That may be all it needs. Use it more! They don't like being left standing for long periods without use!

Hello J.J

We did put fresh petrol in but we think there is no spark as it don't even try and fire

[tr7v8]

First question is does it have an imobiliser or alarm & if so does it behave normally.

Is the battery turning it over OK, too low a voltage will struggle to run the pump & the DME.

When you turn it over does the fuel pump run (get someone to listen under tank on RHS rear)?

When it turns over does the revcounter bounce? If not then the crank sensors/DME are knackered.

Do the injectors click when turning it over?

[JG911]

First question is does it have an imobiliser or alarm & if so does it behave normally.
Yes it bleeps and locks un locks doors etc etc all ok.

Is the battery turning it over OK, too low a voltage will struggle to run the pump & the DME.
Yes the last time i tryed it,it turn over fast and it sounded like the fuel pump buzzing and iv replaced the DME relay and you can smell petrol after a while engine end.

When you turn it over does the fuel pump run (get someone to listen under tank on RHS rear)?
Yeh ill get someone to listen next time

When it turns over does the revcounter bounce? If not then the crank sensors/DME are knackered.
Now this i cannot answer as i did not look or know about it,so ill get a new battery and see what happens.

Do the injectors click when turning it over ?
Not 100% sure to be honest.

[JG911]

Also i would just like to add that we checked the voltage at the coil and it was very low

[af1960]

I had the same problem last year. Turned out to be the timing sensors - beyond my capabilities and sorted by my local independent garage.

[JG911]

I had the same problem last year. Turned out to be the timing sensors - beyond my capabilities and sorted by my local independent garage.

Hello i brought a new sensor & bracket towards the end of last year just incse it was mine aswell,but like you beyond my capabilities aswell i think.

Are timing senors hard to replace ?

[af1960]

My real problem was that the car was stuck in the garage - I could roll it out, but would not be able to get it back back up the slope until the problem was fixed.

My bracket was corroded on and was quite a job to get off, apparently. I don't think that was a sales pitch, because the bill for that work was OK!

It was worth it for me just to be able to turn the key and hear the engine spring into life again!

[J.J.]

A fuel pressure gauge is a relatively cheap addition & makes troubleshooting easier. After that I'll wish you luck & leave it to the experts as on opening your bonnet I wouldn't be able to find the engine.

[JG911]

When it turns over does the revcounter bounce? If not then the crank sensors/DME are knackered.

Do the injectors click when turning it over?

Hello Everyone again,

Right just had my friend round who's got a SC and works in a garage and we boosted the battery cranked her over and the rev counter did not move and the injectors did nothing aswell.

So he says it is the crank sensor.

[JG911]

Has anyone done a Flywheel sensor

[allanjenkins]

Hi,

The reference/speed sensor can be tested insitu, if you look at the LHS engine compartment and remove the blower assembly you'll see three electrical connectors, green, black and white, disconnect black connector which is for the speed sensor and using an electrical tester across terminals 1 & 2 to measure a resistance of 960 ohms +/- 96 ohms and between terms 1 & 3 and 2 & 3 should be greater than 100,000 ohms, so terms 1 & 2 is low resistance and the others high resistance. If it doesn't test out like this you'll need your plastic!

To change the sensor you need access from underneath the car. Sensor is on LHS of engine at edge of bellhousing. Remove LH rear wheel and working from under the car detach L heater hose ( 100mm dia flex air heater hose) Sensor is fixed via 2x 10mm bolts, cable should be removed through engine compartment and out below car. New unit has to be installed so the gap between the sensor tip and the flywheel teeth is 1 +/-0.2mm ( 0.04 +/-0.008in )
It's an awkward job and you'll need plenty of patience. Good luck!!

Allan.

[JG911]

Hi,

The reference/speed sensor can be tested insitu, if you look at the LHS engine compartment and remove the blower assembly you'll see three electrical connectors, green, black and white, disconnect black connector which is for the speed sensor and using an electrical tester across terminals 1 & 2 to measure a resistance of 960 ohms +/- 96 ohms and between terms 1 & 3 and 2 & 3 should be greater than 100,000 ohms, so terms 1 & 2 is low resistance and the others high resistance. If it doesn't test out like this you'll need your plastic!

To change the sensor you need access from underneath the car. Sensor is on LHS of engine at edge of bellhousing. Remove LH rear wheel and working from under the car detach L heater hose ( 100mm dia flex air heater hose) Sensor is fixed via 2x 10mm bolts, cable should be removed through engine compartment and out below car. New unit has to be installed so the gap between the sensor tip and the flywheel teeth is 1 +/-0.2mm ( 0.04 +/-0.008in )
It's an awkward job and you'll need plenty of patience. Good luck!!

Allan.

Hello Allan have you done a sensor ?

[allanjenkins]

Yes, I have removed and replaced the reference/ speed sensor.