My 1.8T 924 Project! (Pic Heavy!!)

[JamesLuton]

Finally got the rallycar to the garage, started stripping the engine out, hopefully out for the weekend.






Was a bit vicious and cut the fuel lines, wont be needed this lump hopefully.....




So hopefully in the next few weeks I can get the block mounted in the 924 engine bay, and go from there!

[JamesLuton]

Motor is out of the car now, test fitted engine with standard sump and you can see why it wont work.

Need to get a mk2 golf sump next and chop it up. Cash is the next thing needed to purchase some items!

[JamesLuton]

Had a free hour after work so stripped the sump of the AEB, pic shows why the pickup pipe needs modifying. The sump needs to clear the crossmember and rack etc, with the pickup closer to the rear.

Also fitted the adapter plate, then placed the bellhousing on to see how much Im going to have to out of the tunnel for the starter to clear, I think I'm going to make a hatch so the starter can be removed via the p/s footwell, will make life easier if it needs to be changed.

[JamesLuton]

Went a bit mental today with the angle grinder and decided it was time to modify the tunnel.....

Have been eyeing up the starter motor and decided instead of mounting it upside down and taking abit more out of the bellhousing I would cut more out of the tunnel so I could fit it the right way up. I'm going to have to plate the tunnel anyway, cut a section out and test fitted, still needs a bit more cutting out and also as I said I'm going to include a hatch in the plate to make changing a starter motor easier.

No turning back now I guess

[JamesLuton]

So today since the bellhousing now bolts up with the tunnel cut I thought I'd test mount the engine!

I also trial mounted the starter motor upside down like steve924's, although this fits neater in the tunnel it requires more cutting from the bellhousing so i'm going to think about it!

Really happy with the progress from this weekend.

The motor sits very close to the crossmember so sump will have to be shallow and possibly an extra mount at the front off the crossmember for extra stability. Also im going to cut the coil mounting bracket from the bulkhead and give it some gentle hammering so I don't have to modify the plastic coolant housing.

Then its engine mounts, exhaust, inlet, wiring...............

Anyway your thoughts are welcome, doesn't seem to be a lot of people posting?

Cheers for looking though.

Upside Down Starter







Bolting it up to the bellhousing


Sump Clearance is pretty tight




Turbo Clearance also pretty tight




Engine Crane Removed! Sat on a block lug on crossmember

[Slimchance]

Looking really good so far. Have you decided on engine mounts yet? Are you going to use the factory mounting points? Have you thought about switching to manual brakes and moving your master cylinder over to the left? If you do this you can use the original AEB manifold with the cable throttle. Keep the updates coming, I'm certainly watching with interest. Bruce.

[JamesLuton]

I was thinking I'd get away with using the factory mounts but as the pic below shows the steering rod doesn't clear it, so I think im going to have to make at least a d/s mount.

I was thinking about running a smaller servo or getting rid all together, I'll see as I progress what I think Is best.

Tonight I cut the coil mount off, wasn't easy and needs plating as behind it has a hole into the interior. Means I might be able to fit the standard coolant flange in after some more gentle hammering of the bulk head! Cylinder head now has loads more clearance though.

[JamesLuton]

Been a while since I posted, not got much done recently.

Cut down the Alternator/Water Pump Bracket, im not using the fan or the power steering pump, trying to bolt as much as possible on before I have to make the mounts, just to make sure everything is clear.







The piece I cut off the bracket

[JamesLuton]

Need to do some wiring.........

Just need to get rid of some bits from the loom like the alarm and tidyup the wiring before splicing the AEB loom in.

Also since the dash is out I now have a choice. Black Dash or Brown Dash..... I also have a mate who does dash flocking so might go that route yet

[JamesLuton]

Ran into a bit of an issue with the coolant flange, I either modify the plastic housing which I don't really want to have to do, make a new coolant flange with takeoffs of modify the bulkhead a touch to allow the standard one to fit.
Got the heater out to have a look at modifying the bulkhead but the bar that runs from the brake pedal to the cylinder sits pretty close to the bulkhead, so not much room for cutting and welding. I could buy a floor mounted pedal box and do away with it all including the Servo, which would mean not having to cut down the inlet manifold, use a hydraulic clutch aswell, but its not a cheap option. I could try cutting an welding the brake to cylinder bar but its not ideal, has anyone removed one before?

Made a dodgy cardboard template for my tunnel and for my new centre console so I can make some steel ones.

Anyway so photos....


The Brake Bar




Even with the coil mount removed the sensors and back of the housing just catch the bulkhead



Making sure the templates fit with the dash



Still loads to do, hopefully get my tunnel welded and mounts made this weekend

[Slimchance]

James, bin the plastic coolant pipe and make a steel one without the temp sensors in, then you can put your temp sensors in different pipe. You'll have to change to a screw in type sensor though. I'll get a picture of the pipe I made up to give you an idea. Mine doesn't have the brake bar (LHD) so I can't think how it mounts, but could you cut and extend the bar which would put the master cylinder further to the passenger side to clear the inlet manifold? Another thing to look it is if you do away with the oil cooler sandwich plate and use a smaller oil filter, you don't need to buy a remote filter kit. Keep at it. Bruce

[JamesLuton]

James, bin the plastic coolant pipe and make a steel one without the temp sensors in, then you can put your temp sensors in different pipe. You'll have to change to a screw in type sensor though. I'll get a picture of the pipe I made up to give you an idea. Mine doesn't have the brake bar (LHD) so I can't think how it mounts, but could you cut and extend the bar which would put the master cylinder further to the passenger side to clear the inlet manifold? Another thing to look it is if you do away with the oil cooler sandwich plate and use a smaller oil filter, you don't need to buy a remote filter kit. Keep at it. Bruce

Yeah I was thinking that, just make a flange out of steel, just a bit of sealant and have a 90 bend in steel pipe welded to it with a take off for the heater, then I'm going to have to make a new water pipe anyway so I'll just jubilee onto the end of the steel pipe and put my racetech sensor further down the line

Made my steel plate for the tunnel today, needs the end plate making and then welding ln, and I want to cut a inspection hole in the side with a steel plate that tech screws over it for making removing the starter motor easy



Starter isn't bolted in so sits a bit higher usually

[JamesLuton]

Made a decision to make a coolant flange, so once the tunnel is finished and the plate on the bulkhead the heater and dash can go back in

So today started welding my plate in (I'm no welder but you've gotta start somewhere!), got the motor back out and got everything ready for the weekend.

Hopefully finish welding the tunnel, and plate the bulkhead then lash some seam sealer on leave to dry and paint!

Motor can then go back in for mounts.





What was behind the coil mount, needs plating

[JamesLuton]

Little bit more progress made, only at the garage a few hours a week and weekends so progress is slow but I feel like im getting somewhere

Had my engine mount plates made up, which bolt to the block. Bit of head scratching but finally figured it out and had my mate make them up. Now I need to put the motor back in and measure to the chassis legs to get the measurement for my mounts. Im going to run some tubing from the plate to a bush, then a plate and bracket on the chassis leg












Clutch plate turned up and fits the shaft of the torque tube perfect, its from a 2.0 Type2 Camper, so just need to order the flywheel and cover and hope it all fits!



Also modified the bellhousing a bit more to get the starter in upside down. I cant take enough out to get both bolt holes in so I will be bolting threw the top and making a clamp style bracket for the bottom.





Tunnel and bulkhead now finished and painted, just need to cut the triangle of floor left on the bulkhead side and bend the top corner piece and cut my inspection/removal hole out.

[JamesLuton]

So, had the inlet manifold cut in half, and I've taken a little bit out of the mounts that hold the fuel rail.

It needs a bit more taking out but the guys who will be welding it up are going to belt sand it flat before welding, it touches the bulkhead still, nothing a bit of hammering wont sort but a bit of belt sanding should take a few more mm out so happy for now. Test fitted injectors with cut down posts, need to get a bit of threaded bar, Loctite it in then use a nut on the tops.

Also got hold of some E36 Subframe Polybushes, and my mate is making a bush sleeve for each of them so I can use them as engine mounts.